If you arrive in Monaco at Jardin Exotique, the road takes you down to the Casino where there is a traffic light; you either turn right to go down to the port, left to Roquebrune Cap Martin, or across and down a small road through the Casino gardens to the Place du Casino. One of the drivers of the Bus de Soirée, whose job can be pretty lonely in winter time when there is no late night open air cinema and few tourists (he works at night so that he can go fishing in the daytime or tend his vegetable garden in the hills behind Menton) told me that on every tour he looks forward to stopping at the light and admiring the only really elegant view in Monaco, over the Boulingrins gardens and fountains to the floodlit Casino. It is just as magical in daytime; the sun shimmers through the leaves of the trees and the dancing fountains, the gardens are ablaze with brightly coloured flowers and the tourists flock to take photographs.